Zanskar Chadar Trek - Duo - 2005

No Porters . . No Guide . . No Agency

Sanjay Javalkar & Umesh Kakade

Feb 2005 – then Chadar Trek was very much unfamiliar and not a craze             

THE FROZEN RIVER TREK or THE CHADAR TREK, on river Zanskar, at temperatures from –15⁰c  to –35⁰c, in one of the most remote regions of LADAKH and in extremely hostile conditions was successfully completed by us with scarce resources and limited information - - is now a fashion for trekkers.

River Zanskar flows at the south-west of Leh in the higher altitudes of Ladakh. The average elevation here is over 12,000 feet above sea level. A few villages are situated along the river and people of these villages are known as ‘Zanskaris’. 

Since ancient times, during winter,  people of Zanskar walk over the frozen river (referred as Chadar) to reach Leh. Now, among trekkers and adventure enthusiasts it's become popular as Chadar Trek.

Years ago, I had seen a documentary on the Discovery Channel about the river Zanskar and it's people, and since then, had a desire venture there. This winter after many hardships we, Umesh and myself, reached Leh.

27^th Jan 2005, we flew from Chandigarh to Leh but since the climate was unfavorable and the runway at Leh had verglas the flight never landed and we were dropped back to Delhi. The airline company took care of our stay and food. 

The next day we were taken to Delhi Airport where we waited whole day to fly to Leh. Unfortunately this day too owing to the bad weather in Leh our flight was cancelled. The airline company paid us Rs 1000 per person to take care of us and asked us to report at the airport next day by 6 am. While all other passengers left the airport, me & Umesh resorted ourselves at the airport itself for the night thus saving our money.

29^th Jan we were successful in landing in Leh. Since we were doing the Chadar trek by ourselves (not through any agency) it took me another three days to gather final supplies and pack up. We took advantage of these three days to acclimatize ourselves by climbing up to Leh Monastery and Shanti Stupa daily. Here in Leh, we avoided staying indoors, wearing thick jackets, sitting near the bukhari (a traditional rooms heater used in the Himalayas) and heavy blankets while sleeping.

Travelling a rough road (60 kms / 3 hrs) in a Swaraj Mazada took us from Leh to Chilling, a small village from where we were supposed to begin our trek. It was noon and we decided to begin trekking this day itself to gain time that we had lost during air flights. There also was a big share of excitement within us to trek on the frozen Zanskar river.

After just a mile’s trek on moraine and we were now at the frozen icy river. Delicately placing our feet, one by one, on it while trying to judge if the frozen surface of ice can take our weights we looked at each other in astonishment. With a twinkle in our eyes we said, “yes! It’s no problem”. Walking a little further we gained more confidence in the frozen river and we knew it was strong enough to take us. We had to avoid the edges which could be a little more brittle and may break off.

Beginning from Chilling, there was about 4 inches soft snow on the frozen river which gave us stability in walking. But less than a mile later, it was just hard smooth ice. It was like walking on miles of ice slabs and we slipped several times – also fell down a couple or more times while laughing at each other. After the fall it was confirmed that the frozen river was strong enough and wouldn’t give off.

Although we were well adapt with the high altitudes, the kind of trek that we were now doing was absolutely different. We were walking on a frozen river in the remotest region of the Ladakh Himalayas.

Mentioning of walking, it wasn’t the usual kind of walk. We were walking from our thigh pelvic joints without bending our knees. We were in better balance this way. The heavy and bulky bags on our backs made it more uncomfortable and we had to manage our poise properly. Lack of concentration meant a fall, which could be dangerous at times.

Although we had just okay type of clothing, our sleeping bags and shoes were simply excellent. A relative of mine in Leh had helped us rent out white snow shoes used by the army in Siachen glacier and double layered sleeping bags suitable for -25^oc. 

We didn’t have trekking poles or sledges to carry our heavy rucksacks containing food for a week (for 2 people), fuel (Hexamine tablets), stove, medicine, camera, tent, sleeping bags, mattresses, extra clothing, a rope, some water proofing and even off drinks to warm ourselves at nights.

Far away we saw a person walking ahead of us. With a ray of hope to get some company, we increased our pace of walking slipping and tumbling numerous times. We had seen that person fall a couple times. As we neared him, he fell down again and Umesh rushed to help him to his feet. He was an old Zanskari who was returning to his village (where he would reach on the third day) after shopping in Leh.

As we too had similar plans, we thought of walking with this local as his company with provide us with lot of information about the area, their culture, route and much more. For the next three days we were of reciprocal help to each other. We trekked, stayed and cooked food together. By the time we would pitch  tent and set baggage and beds, this Zanskari would gather twigs to cooks food and make some good milk tea using milkmaid.

For most of the time, a broad portion of the emrald Zanskar river rolled down from amid it’s still broader icy shores. The views were splendid and the water chill and clear. This day we trekked till 4:30 in the evening and pitched our tent on a soft sandy beach beside the river.

It was overwhelming and with a feeling of enthusiasm growing in us we cooked some soup and curry and, over some rum, had it with Ladakhi rotis and dry fish pickle that we had carried. Considering our two men tent the Zanskari chacha, to his routine, slept in a cave like space. Nevertheless, we generously gave him a mattress and a sleeping bag.

Temperature was dipping down and by 8 pm it was -28 ^oc. It must have got still colder in the night. It was very cold and we shuddered while changing sides from left to right or vice versa. Considering 2005, the Chadar Trek was a great adventure. A still greater adventure was to get out of the sleeping bag and the greatest of all was to go out of the tent for a pee, may be 2 or, sometimes, 3 times in the night at -35^oc.

Waking up next day morning, we found some white substance on the inner walls of our tent. On observing closely we realized that it was brittle ice and we wondered how it got there. Later it came to my realization that the warm air (containing moisture) that we exhale goes up and sticks to the walls of the tent. The cold temperature almost immediately freezes the moisture and converts it to ice. This happened for all four nights on the Chadar trek.

For those who can manage the altitude and the cold, the Chadar trek, I felt, isn’t so physically demanding. But surely it is dangerous and one has to be cautious of what the Chadar says. We had developed some pain at the high pelvic bones joint due to the different kind of walking. It indeed was a little painful in the beginning of this day until our bodies were warmed up but later we forgot of it.

Trekking with the Zanskari chacha was fun, educative and entertaining. Most times we didn’t understand the very little Hindi that he spoke. We helped him cross narrow icy straits. Gradually, this day, the blue waters of Zanskar disappeared and it was all hard frozen river. It was a beautiful sight and we realized the real problem when we had exhausted our drinking water.

With our throats dry and the bodies demanding for hydration we would scrape on the verglas with spoon, plate and knife.  The small chunks of ice we kept in the mouth, without touching it to the teeth, and let the melting water drip in the stomach drop by drop. A pinch of concern enveloped us. Water was surely a matter to be considered. Now, as we walked quietly with chunks of ice in our mouths and freezing frames, we were thinking of how to get water. Our Zanskari chacha disclosed now that he had come on the chadar after nearly 15 years. Pheeew . .  that was a shot. 

Trekking further, we saw a pothole in the frozen river and beneath the thick slab of ice was flowing “liquid” water (yes, I should say liquid). As the water was beyond our arms reach we tied a string to the bottle and gathered water. Quenching our thirst over some snacks sitting around the pothole, we were happy. Before leaving we didn’t forget to fill three empty bottles and trekked further, now, with a broad chest.

The remaining day passed and by 4 pm we decided to set our camp for the night. This day we got a better beach in a wide rocky fissure that would stop cold winds directly hitting our tent. Close by, chacha told us, was a cave where we could stay. But we preferred to pitch our tent.

We were happy that we got a good place and enough water. The real trouble, we realized after pitching the tent. The water in the remaining two bottles was almost frozen. Without taking a chance of it freezing further, of whatever we could drain from the bottles, we gulped some while chacha prepared tea from the more of it.

Luckily for us, close by from our camp was a patch of softer ice. Umesh happily scooped a full bowl of it and, to our surprise, after melting it over the high temperature of a Hexamine tablet we got less than half bowl of liquid water. The softer snow was much porous hence we got a lesser quantity after melting. This we did about three more times so that it could suffice us for the evening. A few gulps of water we hid (from the freezing climate) it in our sleeping bag for the night.

Soup, Ladakhi roti, curry and more fish pickle again (in fact for 4 nights) was for dinner with rum which had by now become like syrup. After early dinner all of us sat out in the cold for sometime gazing at now darkening the sky. And yes before sleeping, we didn’t forget to pee to the last drop . . squeezing the bladder to the fullest and praying not to wake for it in the night.

Day three morning gave me a big shock. Today chacha was supposed to separate from us and go to his village Lingshed, while we were to stay somewhere before. Soon after we resumed the trek I realized that the batteries of both, camera & the video cam, had given away. The previous night, in an effort to sort the water issue, we had forgotten to remove the batteries and store them warm.

In vain, I plunged my hand in my rucksack in all directions to find the spare batteries and came to a conclusion that we had left them in our surplus luggage at Leh.  The trek was almost the same as yesterday and we deeply regretted for being unable to take pictures of the frozen waterfall.

After trekking for almost 6 hours, we reached an area known as Nyerak and chacha told us that we could camp at this place. He was supposed to walk two more hours to reach his village and so without wasting his time we gave him some snacks and bid a warm bye.

For long we watched him walk away, the typical Himalayan duck-walk, and only when he was almost invincible we smiled at each other and took up to pitch our tent on softer patch. The best part of this campsite was that just beside was a patch of flowing water and we could pick it at an arms stretch.

Umesh had picked a glass of water for me and I had kept it aside thinking I will drink it after pitching the tent as it was too cold. A few minutes after we had pitched the tent I picked the glass and found that the water in it was completely frozen. The good news was our bodies were well adapt to the climate.

In the chill, we preferred to sit beside Zanskar with our dinner and the internally warming syrup. It was a party – we ate and drank a lot for a longer time and, although getting out of breath, even danced. Back in the tent, after easing off, we talked, giggled, laughed and would keep quite when out of breath. This continued late till mid night and we slept after planning to trek double distance tomorrow on our return journey.

Many times in the night we heard loud thudding sounds and wondered what it could be of. In this remote region of the Ladakh Himalayas it seemed very unnatural to us. For a moment I actually felt my heart beating faster, and soon concluded that it was the sound of the breaking of hardened ice.

We missed chacha’s tea* in the morning and were not in a mood to prepare it by ourselves as we had to walk a long way today. Packing up as soon as possible we started our return journey and, without many breaks, we reached the place where we had camped for the first night. It was evening and we set the tent early.

* Corresponding picture is Day 2 and is inserted here to keep the flow of you the reader

After preparing the soup and curry, I opened my bag for the second bottle and to my surprise found the extra batteries warmly packed in a balaclava. We were happy and even blamed each other for the mistake. This night too we had a similar party and slept late digging on the experiences and laughing.

Morning we came to a conclusion that we had slept oblivious, because at night there had been some wild movement just outside our tent and we were not aware of it. My keen observation, developed in the Western Ghats, had spotted pug marks of a snow leopard and its cub in the sand just beside our tent. Not only the pug marks, there were fresh droppings also.

With the batteries discovered previous night, I didn’t forget to take pictures of the pug marks and the droppings. Although Chilling, the end point of our trek was just 4 hours away, we left early while chewing the rotis hoping to get a truck or a jeep back to Leh the same day.

But then they say, ‘sometimes it doesn’t happen as you wish’.

It was 8 am, the last day of our trek and we were returning back. With my own weight of over 80 kgs and a rucksack on my back of almost 20 kgs, the crust of ice cruelly crackled under my feet making a screeching sound that echoed in the valley. 

With every further step the crackling sound increased, which meant that the hardness of ice was weakening. Like I have said before the trek can be dangerous if we don't listen to the Chadar. I thought of turning back a little distance and make ascend over the mountain from elsewhere. But no, we were in a gorge and there was no way up the hill.

I decided to risk it and check further. The crackling of ice never stopped. I had told Umesh, to keep a safe distance behind me. A little more distance and the condition worsened. Now I could clearly see over 6 inches of water slowly flowing on the crust of ice. I knew, after traversing just a couple hundred steps here we would be in a less vulnerable zone.

I continued taking small steps, carefully putting my weight. We didn't have experience for this kind. The fear was if the icy layer breaks I would be flown away from below the crust of the ice. Scary and unimaginable. 

Just then, out of the blue, we heard some human voice from behind us. We turned around and, to our bliss, a group of Zanskaris carefully paving their way towards us while some of them waving at us to stop. Without any second thought, and with gratitude, in our minds we stood still.

In a minute or two they reached us and, with more of actions and little of Hindi, told us to follow them. We felt relieved and maintaining a safe distance followed them on the watery frozen river. They sped away after we had crossed this dangerous patch. A little further we again met them where they were making tea. Obviously, we were invited and Umesh too offered them cigarettes which they gladly accepted. The subject of communication, more by means of acting, was they were surprised and happy to see just the two of us doing the Chadar Trek and warmly greeted us.

After tea they offered to carry our bags on their sledges and we too thought of pampering our shoulders. Soon we realized that we had to walk too fast with them sacrificing on our photography and so, thanking them, we took back our bags. Chilling the end point of our trek was an hour or so away from here and we had become sort of lazy.

Just before the last few meters on the frozen river, the ice slab below my feet suddenly gave off making a loud crackling sound and before I knew anything was a foot deep in the cold river. The flow of the river was slow and I stammered to get out the freezing river. Umesh who was already on the moraine was laughing loudly. Luckily the freezing water had not entered inside my shoes which could probably have caused frost bite.

Chilling was less than 30 minutes away and, now, we were like marathon runners closing in to the finish line. Water that had remained on my shoes had formed into hard ice. Even the lace of my shoes were enveloped with hard ice. I had to practically heat the lace of my shoes with a lighter to loosen them and then Umesh had to use his teeth to open them and get the shoes off my feet.

As there was no transport back from Chilling to Leh, we were left with the only option of pegging our tent for this night under a old shed. As fate would have it, from this day climate went very bad and it started snowing. By next day morning there was well over a foot of snow, clearly saying that there would be no transport this day also. Snowing continued and we were stuck up at Chilling in our tent the second day also. It was only on the third day noon that a daring truck driver happened to reach Chilling and agreed to take us back to Leh the same day.

For four days, early morning, we would say a bye to my relatives in Leh and return back home from the airport by evening. The carrier never arrived. Leh was clad in a blanket of fresh white snow and we took the opportunity of revisiting and photographing Leh Gompa and Shanti Stupa . . all new look.

On the fifth day, a Jet Air flight came in and we boarded it like we were taking a State Transport bus to Delhi. It was only after the flight took off and we were mid air we said, “so we are finally going back!” 

Not to miss to mention the Jet Air hostess was very courteous to give me a complete extra serving of meal when I told her I was very hungry.

Experiencing the lowest temperatures, a very odd kind of terrain, unfavorable climate, complexities ever ready to pounce on and with-standing a great test of patience we had completed the then less known Chadar Trek.

Sanjay V. Javalkar

Belgaum, Kar, India

+91 99014 90078 

MORE PICTURES IN SEQUENCE OF THE CHADAR TREK

(Click on the pics to enlarge them)