Icy breeze blew at high speed, piercing through skin & retarding our already slow pace of walking. The ascent in this part of the Himalayas on the fourth day of the expedition, near to the Indo-China border in the Kumaon Himalayas of Uttaranchal, measured over 50 degrees.
 |
| Himalaytan hills enroute Kuti to Adi Kailash |
By
now we had trekked almost 70 kilometres of arduous terrain in very inhospitable
conditions. Being the group leader, I carried the heaviest rucksack, which
weighed a well over 20 kgs, the Geographical statistics in my wristwatch -
temperature 2.50c, altitude about 14,000+ ft. & the barometric
pressure sharply fallen down (which meant a still bad weather). I knew we had
to hasten.
It
was already snowing as we continued to push ourselves further ahead through the
many ascends & descends. It was long since we had left from Kuti
village.
Far, in the direction to which we were walking, I spotted a few green
spots - unnatural to be in this kind of terrain.
At higher altitudes in the Himalayas, even a twig of grass is a rare sight. It looks like a brown barren cold desert up there, but in some corners grows herbs of high medicinal properties. It did not take more time for me to understand that those tiny green spots were nothing but ITBP post of the area known as Jolingkong, where we were planning to stay for the night.
 |
| ITBP Post near Adi Kailash |
spots - unnatural to be in this kind of terrain.
At higher altitudes in the Himalayas, even a twig of grass is a rare sight. It looks like a brown barren cold desert up there, but in some corners grows herbs of high medicinal properties. It did not take more time for me to understand that those tiny green spots were nothing but ITBP post of the area known as Jolingkong, where we were planning to stay for the night.
A
pinch of contentment and happiness sprouted in the group as I mentioned it to
them. Our roaring stomachs, which were filled with small bowls of noodles 4
hours before, made more noise after this difficult trek of 13 kms. Gluing a
telescope to my eye, I pulled the post closer, magnifying it. Regularising my
breath, to make the telescope steady, I marked some human movements at the
post. At first I was happy to see some men there, but when I further observed
their movements, I sensed that we were to face problems.
post. At first I was happy to see some men there, but when I further observed
their movements, I sensed that we were to face problems.
*
* * * * * *
 |
| Post office at Budhi village |
Now,
it was time to actually begin the trek on foot. We had shed much our luggage at
a friend in Dharchula (from where we had taken Inner Line Permits) so that we
could trek a little lighter. Never-the-less, my rucksack weighed a well over 15 kgs. Beginning from Mangati, for this day I had scheduled to trek a distance of
19 kms.
After
the initial 10 kms of gradual ups & downs we trekked through very narrow
paths for about 2 kms, before reaching Malpa, where in 1998 a massive landslide
had killed about 220 people including pilgrims going to Kailash
Mansarovar.
Because I had actually seen & stayed in Malpa village (during my own
Kailash Mansarovar trek) in 1996, I could well realise the horror that had
struck the village.
 |
| At Chialekh Pass |
It
was about 1:00 pm when we had lunch at Malpa. The weather forecast in my
wristwatch predicted that it would rain in a couple hours. By the time we
reached the next village ‘Lamari’, the sky was totally packed with clouds &
I took the right decision of taking an unscheduled halt for this day. Today, we
had covered a 15 kms, instead of scheduled 19 kms. This naturally meant that we
would have to cover 5 kms extra the next day.
Nothing
really taxed me anywhere during the trek, except for the pain in my right knee owing
to a mo-bike accident I had couple years back. The pain started just on the
first day of the trek & stayed with me till the end of it.
Although I
limped during the whole trek with a heavy sack I was able to keep up with a
good pace.
 |
| A shack below a rock run by a Bhutia Chachi at Chialekh Pass |
The following morning was clear, making easy way to the next village Budhi.
Three kms ahead from Budhi is Chilakh pass, an almost vertical ascent that
strains us for almost two hours. From here to Garbyang & finally to Gunji is a painless trek of a whole 15 kms. It was till this village that I had trekked before during one of my previous ventures & gone much further ahead to Manasarovar & Kailash, crossing the Indo-China border.
From
Mangati to Gunji (10500 ft), we had trekked along the river Kali Ganga in the
Byas valley in the Northeast direction. Now from Gunji to Kuti (in the Kuthi
Yankati Valley) we had to go Northwest deeper in the Himalayas, along the banks
of river Kuti.
 |
| Mt. Api peeping out of the clouds |
Our
next destination was village Kuti (12500 ft - named after river Kuti) 19 kms
from Gunji. Three kms from Gunji, on either banks of the river Kuti, are
villages Nabhi & Raungkong. Other than these two villages, there is no
shelter anywhere in between hence time, distance, weather & food have to be
managed properly. Although the initial 15 kms of the trek is a gradual ascend the
last 4 kms, just before reaching village Kuti, is a physically taxing trek.
We
reached Kuti well in time at about 4 pm (trekking for a little over 6 hours). While
an herbal lunch restored our lost energies, I felt the condition of my knee
still detorating. To add to, because of the severe pain in the right knee, I
had been putting too much strain on the left leg. Eventually, my left knee
& ankle started complaining of the surplus work they had been doing.
 |
| Enroute Chialekh to Garbyang |
Right
then, like the Buddha sitting under the banyan tree, I was enlightened with another
realisation understanding the difference between ‘me’ & ‘my’. The
secret being revealed to me, helped me to overcome or rather detach myself from
the pain to a considerable extent.
Being
a little aware of the further problem we started the trek from Kuti to
Jolingkong (12500 to 14800 ft – 14 kms) at 6 am. Descending down from the Kuti
village we crossed a small bridge over the river Kuti. We now were at the other
side and gradually the route goes further away from the river. We steadily gained
altitude trekking many descends & ascends which surely takes away the
energy at this altitude.
* * * * * * *
 |
| Enroute Gunji to Kuti |
Speeding
up, not to reach the camp faster, but to gain time, we managed to reach the
ITBP camp when the men were closing the Camp. The KMVN Camp a little further
was still not open owing to the still unfair climate.
This
was Jolingkong & just opposite to the ITBP post (to the West) was the great
charismatic mountain ‘Adi Kailash or Chhota Kailash’. Although, it was a little
cloudy when we reached here, we could get good views of Adi Kailash. By now, we
had trekked a total distance of 75 kms to get a view of this heavenly mountain.
Scenic
beauty of this mountain & around is simply ineffable. A person who has been
lucky to visit both Kailash Mansarovar & Adi Kailash Parvati Tal, will
surely agree that, although less popular, this part of the Himalayas is equally
thrilling, beautiful & challenging. Seizing this moment of joy, I disclosed
the dread news to the group that we had to return back to Kuti the same day, as
accommodation was not available here.
Capturing this great mountain in our cameras, & after crossing a small stream* fed by the glaciers of Adi Kailash, we moved ahead to Parvati Tal which is about 4 kms from here. The fresh water lake at an altitude of over 14500 ft is really astonishing & is fed by the glaciers of another mountain Khimling. By now the weather was getting cloudy & the lake reflected grey colour of the clouds. A small temple of goddess Parvati is built with stones on the bank of the lake, where pilgrims & trekkers pays homage. We circumnavigated around the lake with a feeling of reverence and still thinking of the return trek to reach back to Kuti.
Capturing this great mountain in our cameras, & after crossing a small stream* fed by the glaciers of Adi Kailash, we moved ahead to Parvati Tal which is about 4 kms from here. The fresh water lake at an altitude of over 14500 ft is really astonishing & is fed by the glaciers of another mountain Khimling. By now the weather was getting cloudy & the lake reflected grey colour of the clouds. A small temple of goddess Parvati is built with stones on the bank of the lake, where pilgrims & trekkers pays homage. We circumnavigated around the lake with a feeling of reverence and still thinking of the return trek to reach back to Kuti.
(small stream* - from Jolingkong to the West towards Mt. Adi
Kailash at an distance of about 2 kms & an elevation of about 700 ft, there
is another lake
named as Gouri Kund amid the glaciers of Adi Kailash)
We were happy that exactly half of our journey was now complete and were to resume the return journey from here. But the problem was, for this day we still had to trek 18 kms to reach Kuti. The terrain was constant ups & downs. While ascents taxed the lungs & thighs, descends tolled the knees. To add to, temperature dipped to 30c & we had only a few chocolates left with us. In all, it never was easy.
 |
| Bridge on river Kuti crossing towards Jalingkong (Adi Kailash) |
We were happy that exactly half of our journey was now complete and were to resume the return journey from here. But the problem was, for this day we still had to trek 18 kms to reach Kuti. The terrain was constant ups & downs. While ascents taxed the lungs & thighs, descends tolled the knees. To add to, temperature dipped to 30c & we had only a few chocolates left with us. In all, it never was easy.
It
now was 2:30 pm. Everyone was worn and the thought of trekking another 18 kms
put the whole group in more agony. It was very much obvious that there was
severe physical pain. I also realised that my group had developed a mental
barrier. All they needed was a motivating philosophical dose. I once again held
up my “don’t think policy” & pressing deep on that concept from
time to
time, almost dragged the group back to Kuti after a whole 5 hours.
I had also made the group accept the fact that there was only self help available & the more we delay, the more difficult it would be for us.
 |
| The sacred mount Adi Kailash or Chota Kailash |
I had also made the group accept the fact that there was only self help available & the more we delay, the more difficult it would be for us.
This
day we had trekked about 35 kms (at altitudes between 12500 ft to 14800 ft),
which was appreciated by the locals & ITBP personnel too. Now, at Kuti, and
although we still had to trek almost 60 more kms to reach Dharchula, we felt at
home.
From
Kuti, we reached back to Dharchula (the same route) after trekking for three days,
with not so ease. In all we had trekked about 150 kms in seven days.
Less
than a week later, back at home, the grandeur of the mighty Himalayas
started
prompting me again to be in its serenity. To trek in the Himalayas, one has to
have sturdy shoulders, strong knees, a mighty heart
and be in state of ‘no-mind’.
 |
| Shiva Temple near Parvati Tal |
and be in state of ‘no-mind’.
The cold sweat gushing out of the body takes off all the accumulated impurities - physically & mentally. This I call, purifying the body, the mind & the soul.
If
you want to get enlightened, then, you must hurl yourself into extreme
circumstances, where all artificial resources of the material world end.
Sanjay V. Javalkar
Belgaum, Karnataka, India
WhatsApp: +91 99014 98878
Email: infinityadventures@rediffmail.com
Sanjay V. Javalkar
Belgaum, Karnataka, India
WhatsApp: +91 99014 98878
Email: infinityadventures@rediffmail.com
 |
| The sacred lake Parvati Tal |
This the itinerary that we followed
Day
|
From
|
To
|
Altitude
Ft.
|
Kms
|
Via
|
1
|
Dharchula to Mangti Nala Jeep
|
Lamari
|
9100
|
15
|
Gala Malpa 8150 ft
|
2
|
Lamari
|
Gunji
|
10500
|
22
|
Budhi 9900 ft, Chialekh 11000 ft, Garbyang 11100 ft
|
3
|
Gunji
|
Kuti
|
12500
|
19
|
Raungkong 17300 ft
|
4
|
Kuti
|
Jolingkong
(Adi Kailash & Parvati Tal)
|
14700+
|
14+4
|
|
4
|
Jolingkong
(Adi Kailash & Parvati Tal)
|
Kuti
|
12500
|
14+4
|
|
5
|
Kuti
|
Gunji
|
10500
|
19
|
Raungkong 17300 ft
|
6
|
Gunji
|
Lamari
|
9100
|
22
|
Budhi 9900 ft, Chialekh 11000 ft, Garbyang 11100 ft
|
7
|
Lamari
|
Mangti Nala to Dharchula Jeep
|
15
|
Malpa 8150 ft
|
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