In July 2002 Click on the pics to enlarge them
Sanjay V. Javalkar, BelgaumUmesh G. Kakade, Mumbai
Mahaguro
“… honouring the inviolability of the peak of Kailash and observing time-honored practice and decorum at other specific sites, like the Inner parikrama, which should not be circumambulated until thirteen circuits by the orthodox (the outer parikrama of 52 kms, which normally all people/pilgrims going to Kailash desire to do) route have been accomplished.”
- from book The Sacred Mountain by John Snelling.
Yet we, Mahaguro, Umesh & myself, ventured the inner parikrama, which actually touches Kailash, un-intending to violate its celestial serenity or dishonour the much-adored sacred peak. The logical calculation was simply based on folklore* beliefs. And although I am sort of a non-superstitious person, right there I accepted this belief as it was then supporting my desired venture.
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Right from Dharchula in India, there had been numerous obstacles. I and my brother Umesh were finely tuned to overcome all physical, emotional and psychological hurdles that rose within.
The most difficult part was getting the permits at every point – Dharchula, Gunji, Navidhang, after Lipulek and Purang.
The related Chinese authorities in Purang had initially denied permission for us to go further to Kailas region. It was probably because we were making immense effort did the holy deity and the related officers later ease off and issued us the permits.
Finally boarding a topless truck at Purang, a journey along dusty rough terrain loosened all our joints, we reached Darchen. All through, the relations, that I had developed during my prior lone expedition to Kailash in 1996 has helped a lot.
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*Folklore: Year 2002, the year of the horse (fourth year in the 12 years cycle), which comes once in twelve years, is believed to be an auspicious year and a Kumbh mela is organized at Darchen (base camp for circumambulation around the holy Mt. Kailash) to celebrate holiness.
It is further believed that, any person doing one outer parikrama around the holy mountain during the year of horse / kumbh is equivalent to 12 parikramas. Further beyond, any person who is born in any of the previous years of the horse and does an outer parikrama in the year of the horse, it equals 21 parikramas.
Me, being born in 1966 (year of the fire horse), this folklore or superstitious belief (be it or not) came to be a boon by enhancing my confidence and determination to venture in for the “Inner Parikrama”.
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Any person visiting Kailash wishes to do its outer parikrama which is considered as very sacred. The previous day (10th July), we had trekked the arduous ‘outer parikrama’ (measuring 52 kms in 17 hours – known as Chhokar, which otherwise takes 3 days), reaching an altitude of about 18,500 ft. at Dolma Pass. A slice of minced pork and a glass of beer at Dira Puk was all that I had eaten during the entire parikrama while Umesh was on a bowl of noodles. This night to mark our success and break our day long fast we partied over a 5 liter can of Chang and Yak meat momos.
It was 11th July 2002, Gurupushamrut, a holy day for the Hindus. Now at Serlung Gompa (about 16,500 feet) I was navigating our path of the forbidden inner parikrama, from a map sketched by Swami Pranavananda around 1939. The locals of Darchen (15,400 ft) weren’t able to tell us anything about the inner parikrama.
Now again, after every 15-20 steps, my lungs were pumping air like untiring bellows, trying to get whatever Oxygen from the thin air. A bowl of Yak meat noodles I had eaten just before leaving Darchen had vanished from my stomach. The sun shone bright and the skies were clear, a lucid sign that the Gods didn’t mind our entry in here.
The ascent just after Darchen, measuring about 400, had snatched off almost all my energy and determination. It was hard for me to still stick to my principle of taking ‘just one more step’, rather than thinking of this approximate 28 kilometers parikrama. We had to follow the course of the stream Serlung Chu (which is sourced by the southern glaciers of Kailash), no matter how it came down. Soon I saw the Serlung gompa far away. Excitement grew and unknowingly I was walking faster. A couple dozen fast steps and immediately my lungs prompted, ‘... not that fast man!’ I was forced to restore to my slow steady style of tortoise walk. 
From the Serlung gompa, we got the first close view of the south face of Kailash. While still admiring that glittering majestic peak, I wondered, what it would be to see Kailash from it’s closest. And that experience was just a few miles, few hours away. A cathedral shaped rock, Nandi as Hindus and Agni Raj as the Tibetans know was also visible clearly.
Enthusiasm swelled in us. Paying homage to the deity at Serlung gompa, and without spending more time there we resumed trekking closer towards the revered along Serlung Chu.
Now the stream basin was more uneven. Boulders and rocks scattered all around making the ascent harder than before. Every step was taking us closer to Kailash. Walking this way within a few more hours, I would be right before the sacred mountain, which has remained untouched by humans and just a handful have probably reached. The feeling that sprouted in me is simply indefinable.
After 15 or 20 steps we would relax for few seconds to regularize our lungs and then resume trekking. As if we were permitted by the Gods to venture inside the ‘inner’ parikrama, the climate was excellent – clear and bright. After a few more curves in the Serlung Chu valley, we were right at the base of Nandi. The water that melts from the glaciers of Kailash flows down from both sides of Nandi.
With the Nandi at our right, we began the final ascent, which was more acute. This side of the stream Serlung Chu was completely dry. Yet it was not possible to walk along the path of the stream due to numerous boulders scattered around that would make the ascent more difficult. We preferred to trek further aside from the stream to our left.
Every step took about 3 to 5 seconds and Kailash was getting closer – looking mightier with every step. The measured almost 18000 feet, temperature 20c – pretty warm, and the barometric pressure calculated fair weather. There was fragrance in the air, which we thought was the dwelling of a holy spirit in that serene atmosphere.
Paradoxically, just beside Kailash, we spotted a duo (probably a male and a female) of typical Himalayan deer (Navar), their ochre colour camouflaged in the barren rocky terrain. It certainly was amazing for their presence here, where a twig of grass wasn’t found. They felt undisturbed and secure while being barely 20 odd meters from us, and were calmly grazing (the little herbs that grow at this altitude) as we photographed them. It indisputably was an exceptional sight.
Pushing ourselves step after step for about 3 kms along the side of the Nandi we were right in front of the holy Kailash. It was the most amazing view of the most highly adored mountain in the world. We ascended further to be still closer, barely a hundred steps between Kailash & us.
Close, in line, to the north end of Nandi (about 18600 ft) it was a hypnotic experience to be right in front of Kailash. For a moment I couldn’t believe that we had really done what I dreamt. Nothing was between us. The three of us sat before Kailash, gathering ‘in’ as much as of ‘It’ we could.
Although just a few minutes distance from Kailash, not to destroy the sanctity and disturb its serenity, we felt not to touch it. We were accepted enough closer and it was up to us to keep an appropriate distance of reverence between ‘Him’ and us.
Overcoming the immature greed and desire (or the childish act as I would put it), of touching Kailash we sat in cold silence (no prayers or mantras or no desire of any gratitude) front of Kailash filling in, the nothing, as much as we could. In fact, none of us felt like speaking much between us.
At the bottom of the vertical fissure of the south of Kailash is a formation of ice referred as Linga and there are many Buddhist Chortans.
At the bottom of the vertical fissure of the south of Kailash is a formation of ice referred as Linga and there are many Buddhist Chortans.
The most astonishing fact is, the physical geography of the inner parikrama itself looks like a gigantic Shivlinga. It indeed is the largest Shivlinga anywhere in the world.
Inevitably, the end of our venture was like desired. This rare experience, which a few are blessed to experience, was obviously in our share too.
Few Tips:
· Start early. Generally climate in the Himalayas starts deteriorating by noon. It can become windy and cloudy.
· It is best schedule to try to finish you trek before lunch. Of course, only if its really necessary and the weather if favorable, you can continue.
· Walk slow and steady with average strides to avoid going breathless. Avoid running, jumping and walking too fast. You are not in a competition. Rather enjoy the trek.
· Drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration. Also helps considerably to keep High Altitude Sickness at bay. Be cautious of the water you are drinking.
· Avoid tea, specially the milk bed kind. Namkeen Chai (Salted tea) prepared by the locals in the Himalayas is good serving many purposes. You can have a few bowls of it at a single time.
· Think of just the next few steps. Thinking of the long distance you have to trek this day may make you pessimistic.
· Rest only to regularize your breath (a minute or just a half only, depending upon the ability of your lungs) and sometimes to relax your body.
· Resume walking before your temperature body and lungs cool down completely.
· If at all you sit, sit for just a few moments to relax your knees, muscles and ligaments.
· Avoid sitting for long. The muscles and the ligaments contract early, causing pain, thus making it difficult to resume walking.
· At breaks lightly stretch your body and limbs. Concentrate on regularizing your breath.
· Self hypnotize yourself that you will NOT be hit by High Altitude.
· Don’t try to enjoy the scenery while still walking at dangerous paths.
· At narrow paths remember there’s a bag on your back
· If it’s possible for you try getting unconscious of the strains and pains by diverting your mind elsewhere or getting to the ‘zero state’.
· Eat well. In my case, during all days of the expedition (during both parikramas) I eat meat and drank Chakti and Chang, the wine prepared by the locals in the Himalayan ranges. It’s a personal matter of your body, mind and above all attitude. Try a couple glasses of Chakti or a couple more of Chang before dinner – it’s more helpful.
· Chocolates and medicines will help you and also assist in making friends with locals.
· Sleep early
Sanjay V. Javalkar
Belgaum, Karnataka, India
WhatsApp: +91 99014 98878
Email: infinityadventures@rediffmail.com
Belgaum, Karnataka, India
WhatsApp: +91 99014 98878
Email: infinityadventures@rediffmail.com
